Patrasi Peak- Project “Light & Fast”
Peak: Patrasi (6450m), grade D
Location: Jumla, Nepal
Climbing Team: Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa, Pasang Kami Sherpa
Support Team: Amrit Nepali, Pasang Norbu Sherpa, Dafinjo Sherpa, Balkumar Magar, Prem Magar, Dhan Bahadur Budha, Madan Bahadur B.K, Surendra Bahadur
Expedition Duration: 17 Days
Approach Itinerary: Kathmandu-Jumla-Pere-Khahare-Tauliha-Lower Base Camp-Patrasi Base Camp
Summit Date: June 12, 2024 (First Ascent)
Climbing Route: Northwest Face
Sponsored By: Mount Everest Foundation (MEF)
Gear Support: Petzl Nepal, Primus Sweden, Kailash Gear
Logistics Support: Seven Summit Treks
First Nepalese Team
The UK-based, Mount Everest Foundation (MEF), opened it’s prestigious climbing and exploration grant program to Nepalese citizen for the first time in 2024. This decision marks a significant milestone, as Nepalese citizens joins British & New Zealand nationals in eligibility for these coveted grant.
This MEF’s decision was taken considering the invaluable contribution of Nepalese to mountaineering history, particularly their crucial role in the first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. The foundation acknowledged this rich legacy by opening grants to Nepalese climbers & explorers. It also marked the 70th anniversary of this ground breaking achievement.
We are truly honoured to be the first Nepalese team to receive this prestigious grant for our project “Light & Fast”.
Patrasi Peak- An incredible Opportunity
I have always been passionate about unique alpine climbing projects. Climbing Patrasi, a mountain, situated in one of the most remote areas of Nepal and in pure alpine style, was truly a rewarding experience. We pushed to our limits, climbed the peak in one single push, and without a single rest day during the entire project. It was a true test of our alpine climbing skills, endurance and determination.
This project was an incredible opportunity for us to explore our mountains, and to show our capabilities in alpine climbing. More importantly, our focus was to promote sustainable mountaineering practices and highlight the lesser know regions of Nepal.
We made the first ascent of Patrasi peak on June 12, 2024. Thank you MEF for believing in us and in our project. I would like to thank the entire team and our sponsors for helping us to make this project possible.
Our primary focus was to promote sustainable mountaineering practices and highlight lesser know regions of Nepal.
You can read the detailed report of our Patrasi expedition.